KLONDIKE INSTALLATION AND INSTRUCTIONS

1. KEEP unit upright when uncrating. There are six plate screws that hold unit to pallet.
2. Remove condensing unit and supplies from inside unit. There are locking screws to keep doors from snapping open. Replace locking door screws as a precaution when moving unit on its side or back to kitchen location. Also, ONLY MOVE THIS UNIT WITH HINGES UP. This prevents doors from opening accidentally causing possible damage. TO REMOVE SHIPPING PLATE, TIP UNIT ON ITS BACK. YOU SHOULD HAVE TWO MEN FOR THIS, preferable set at this time onto a four-wheel dolly to move into house. Do not remove four corner feet.
3. Upright unit near its final location. MINIMUM 7’2” CLEARANCE REQUIRED.
4. At this time locate holes for refrig. Lines, power cable and drain.
5. Drill TWO HOLES, a 11/2  inch hole for refrig. Lines with power cable and a 1 inch hole for drain. These holes should be as close to back wall as possible with a foot off the center. Be sure to drill a pilot hole first to be sure you have clearance on the other side.
6. Run your lines from either side. NOTE: Allow 9 feet of line set to come through floor. Locate condensing unit somewhere out of the way but available for service should it need it, basement or cellar. Try to locate in a cool location as this will prolong life and greatly help in efficiency. Do not put in attics or outdoors. Garages quite suitable or even a laundry room, mud room or? Providing good ventilation. Power at unit not required as the unit gets its power from the case through the MX power cable. RUN POWER CABLE ALONG with refrig. lines; tape power cable to refrig. lines and allow 9 feet above floor level. This is so that when unit is pushed into place two feet will come over the top of unit for connection. You may wish to tape the lines to back wall temporarily so they do not fall down when pushing case into place.
7. Run plastic drain tubing through foam tape on backside of case. Do not remove foam tape as this forms a seal. Connect tubing on inside of case to drain stem. Push onto drain stem ONLY 1/2 inch; slide back retainer ring down tubing to wall case; you may need a blunt screwdriver to set into place. Now run remainder of tubing down the one-inch hole. Tubing should be run to a drain, sink or outside. (Approx. one quart a day in humid conditions) Tubing should be trapped to form seal. NOTE THIS TUBING WILL FIT NICELY INTO A ¾ INCH PVC and can be glued. If run to outside location, keep from freezing.
8. If necessary lightly sand any imperfections; care must be taken not to sand brass coated nails on side panels. The Finish is your creation. If I recommend any I prefer Minwax exterior clear. Two coats will give you years and years of service. Be sure to tape off inside face frame (white metal) where gasket makes contact. Inside of doors has already been finished. Best not to remove outside hardware, hinges or doors.

REFRIGERATION HOOKUP  

(Use Hotshot or 409A or new R12 Replacement)

• DO NOT PLUG REFRIGERATION CASE IN UNTIL LINE SET CONNECTED, POWER CABLE CONNECTED, SYSTEM LEAK CHECKED. R409A, HOTSHOT OR POSSIBLE NEW SUBSTITUTE FOR R12 OK.

• Condenser and evaporator should have a slight amount of charge when you open system. This will insure you and I that there are no leaks at case or condenser. These cases are very simple in their refrigeration design and will work perfectly, providing no leaks and charged correctly. Please follow my simple method for start up.

1. Providing line set run, condenser power cable connect weld refrigeration lines at top of case. (use a wet rag under lines so as not to heat up case . Do not over solder as this can block line)
2. At condenser, install sight glass, connect high side line (1/4”), attach your service gauge high side hose and crack service valve ½ turn at condensing unit. LEAVE ³/₈ low side line off for the moment. (NOTE drier already installed at case. Not necessary to have one at condenser. These systems are new clean and dry.)
3. Purge a small amount of refrigerant through high side until air in lines removed out low side line maybe 10 or 15 seconds. Do this procedure twice, connect low side line, OPEN LOW SIDE SERVICE VALVE and charge a slight amount to bring pressure up to 20-25 psi, stop charging. (this procedure lets you know the system is open and if you have a leak you’re not contaminating it with a vacuum pump)
4. Leak test with soap bubbles your welds and flare connections. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NO LEAKS!!!
5. At this time, if there are no leaks, charge system until pressure is about 50-60 psi. Only charge gas through low side.
6. Plug in case at this time, return to your condensing unit and finish charging until sight glass ½ to ¾ full ONLY!! NOTE; on coolers compressor plugs into timer which plugs into outlet at compressor. THIS GIVES AUTOMATIC DEFROST APPROX ONCE A DAY as timer is only activated on call for cold…Run time 1/3 approx. Spin timer through 24 hour cycle to be sure on and off trippers correct. Not necessary to set time
7. Final check…Temp control on top of case (show customer) set cooler at 38 degrees. Tell customer not to adjust until reasonable amount of product in case for ballast.
8. Have your refrigeration man do final hook up of unit or you may wish to have him help you with any of previous steps. The final hook up of refrigeration is a very simple process for someone trained in the trade. He will need only to make connections at the compressor; weld lines at case purge and charge system. All materials are furnished except gas – approx. two to three lbs.
   Temperature control and on-off switch are on top of case. A defrost timer is located at condensing unit on COOLERS. Do not adjust or set time as timer only activated on call for cold. Freezers have their defrost timers at the case. Purchase a refrigerator thermometer at your local hardware store for about $5 to keep check. I recommend about 37 degrees on dial at top of case. You may wish different. Once set, you should not have to readjust. Be sure you have reasonable amount of product for ballast. Average run time approx. 5 to 10 minutes; off for 10 minutes or longer. With defrost, a Klondike case will easily keep product 33 to 36 F. Try not to stack product along back wall on top shelf blocking air flow from cooling unit. Good circulation helps cool faster and the case is more efficient.
   
   Set your racks as you wish, however set bottom rack so that items slide over bulkhead approx. 1 ½ inch off floor. Start from bottom and move up. You may wish a spacer stick or tape to set distance from one rack to another.

 
Motor size approx 12"x 12"x 18" and 35 lbs.

Timer Installations

Do not set timer. Timer activates on call for cooling. Run time approx. ¹/3 to ½.

Defrost approx. 1 time a day. Spin dial one time to check trippers are correct.

DO NOT ADD LOW PRESSURE CONTROLS OR SOLENOID OR OTHER CONTROLLING DEVICES… THIS WILL VOID WARRANTY AND SYSTEM WILL NOT OPERATE CORRECTLY.  

Questions? 805-434-5153. If you are not sure about anything, please call. 
These cases are expensive although very simple. 
Refrigeration should work perfectly.

 
Thank you, Tom Bryant, owner-builder of the KLONDIKE CASE